Five high potential cosmetics ingredients worth developing

1. Astaxanthin

Main benefits: Reduce UV damage

Astaxanthin is a keto carotenoid, fat-soluble blood red pigment, classified as lutein. Natural sources of astaxanthin include algae, yeast, salmon, trout, krill, crayfish, etc. Algae accumulate astaxanthin in high salinity, nitrogen deficiency, high temperature and light. Commercial astaxanthin is mainly derived from Rhodococcus pluvialis, Saccharomyces rubra and chemical synthesis. Rhodococcus pluvialis is one of the best sources of natural astaxanthin. The content of astaxanthin in Rhodococcus pluvialis is up to 3.8% by dry weight. At present, astaxanthin from rhodococcus pluvialis can be used in food in China.

Astaxanthin can effectively inhibit the oxidative damage caused by free radicals and the induction of MMP-1 in the skin after ultraviolet irradiation. Studies have shown that astaxanthin from Rhodococcus vulcanis can increase collagen content by inhibiting the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 in human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, astaxanthin minimizes UV-induced DNA damage and improves DNA repair in cells exposed to UV radiation.

2. Ergothioneine

Main effects: reduce UV damage, anti-saccharification, anti-oxidation

Ergothioneine (EGT) is a naturally occurring amino acid that was first isolated from the ergot fungus in 1909 by French pharmacist Charles Tanret and named after it. Ergothionein is found mainly in actinomycetes (such as Mycobacterium) and non-yeast fungi (including basidiomycetes and ascomycetes), and in human tissues and organs such as red blood cells, bone marrow, liver, kidneys, and eyes, but the body cannot synthesize it itself and can only obtain it through diet, with mushrooms being the main dietary source.

Ergothionein is a tautomer in both mercaptan and thioketone forms, and the thioketone tautomer predominates at physiological pH, which gives ergothionein exceptionally strong antioxidant properties. Clinical data show that the ability of ergothione to clear free radicals is 14 times that of glutathione and 30 times that of coenzyme Q10. In humans, the organic cationic transporter OCTN1 (now known as SLC22A4, a 551 amino acid transporter with three glycosylation sites) can transport ergothionein to the desired site.

3. Sialic acid (n-acetylneuramic acid)

Main benefits: anti-oxidation, anti-wrinkle, whitening

Sialic acids are a family of monosaccharides that occur naturally at the ends of sugar chains attached to the surfaces of cells and soluble proteins. In the human body, the highest concentrations of sialic acid (such as n-acetylneuramic acid) are found in the brain, where it is involved in synaptogenesis and neurotransmission as a component of the ganglioside structure. Human milk also contains high concentrations of sialic acid, attached to the ends of free oligosaccharides. Sialic acid, also known as bird's nest acid, is widely present in edible bird's nest, and was originally extracted and isolated from salivary gland mucin.

4, NMN (β-nicotinamide mononucleotide)

Main effect: anti-aging

NMN stands for β-nicotinamide mononucleotide, which is a nucleotide derived from ribose and nicotinamide. Like nicotinamide ribose, NMN is a B vitamin. NMN is an important nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+) supplement, and in the human body, NMN can be converted to NAD+. NMN achieves anti-aging effect by increasing NAD+ level. At the beginning of 2022, NMN was approved as a new raw material for cosmetics in China.

5. Ceramide

Main effects: moisturizing and moisturizing

The hot oral beauty ingredient in the Japanese market is not hyaluronic acid, which is currently popular, but ceramide. Ceramides come from a variety of sources, including pineapple, rice, and konjac. Among the products with skin care functions declared in the first quarter of 2023 in Japan, only one of the ceramides mainly used came from konjac, and the rest came from pineapple.

Ceramides, also known as sphingolipids, are a kind of sphingolipids composed of sphingosine long chain bases and fatty acids. The molecule is composed of a sphingosine molecule and a fatty acid molecule, belonging to a member of the lipid family. Ceramide's main function is to lock in skin moisture and improve skin barrier function. In addition, ceramides can also resist skin aging and reduce skin desquamation.